THE JOURNAL

A safari, written well

We publish four kinds of writing. Atmosphere. Practical advice. The voices of the people on the ground. And the trips we have actually built. Read whichever pulls at you.

Visiting for the first time? Start with these.

01 — STORIES

Africa, written slowly

Read these with a coffee, not a search bar open.

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Thatched suite deck at Malewane Lodge at sunrise, with plunge pool, freestanding bath and wrought-iron chandelier overlooking the bushveld.

Featured story

Royal Malewane reopens: what we remember, and what the fact sheet confirms

The original Royal Portfolio property is back after months behind scaffolding. We haven't seen it yet. Here is what we know anyway.

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Thatched suite deck at Malewane Lodge at sunrise, with plunge pool, freestanding bath and wrought-iron chandelier overlooking the bushveld.

Royal Malewane reopens: what we remember, and what the fact sheet confirms

The original Royal Portfolio property is back after months behind scaffolding. We haven't seen it yet. Here is what we know anyway.

Guests on a stationary Cheetah Plains game drive vehicle in the Sabi Sand, golden light and dust behind them

How do you want to feel when you get home?

Why we plan safaris around how you want to feel when you get home, not around a pin on the map.

Elephant through thermal camera

Safari After Dark

Night drives reveal a different Africa. Quieter, older, more deliberate. Here's what we love about the bush after the sun goes down.

Curved timber bar at Saseka Tented Camp with warm amber lighting and geometric ceiling planes

When space teaches: what Saseka's refresh tells us about gathering in the bush

What a thoughtful safari lodge refresh tells us about gathering in the bush.

Vikki Jackson and Federal Airlines staff with champagne at the new Baobab lounge in Hoedspruit

Inside FedAir's new Baobab lounge at Hoedspruit

The new Baobab lounge at Hoedspruit airport changes how a safari begins. Vikki Jackson on the room that holds you before the bush does.

Vikki drinking coffee from a Monwana flask on a Land Cruiser at dawn, with an elephant grazing in the misty bush behind her.

Monwana, and what coming home actually means

By Vikki Jackson and Sian Loehrer. A week at the Thornybush lodge that has built its whole identity around the word home, and what we found when we tested it against the room, the drives, the afternoons and the bill.

The Mozambique dhow: a slow boat at the end of a fast trip

The Mozambique dhow: a slow boat at the end of a fast trip

Why we put a dhow afternoon into almost every Mozambique trip. Sail, salt water and the long breath out after safari.

Emperor penguins in Antarctica

Why we built the Antarctica page

A short note from Sian on why an African safari business added Antarctica to its destination map, and how we handle a trip neither founder has yet made.

Lion Sands Ivory Lodge firepit lounge and bar, Sabi Sand, May 2026

Lion Sands Ivory Lodge. What their redesign gets right

I visited Lion Sands Ivory Lodge in the Sabi Sand. The redesigned spaces are quiet, bold, and rare. Here is what they got right.

A safari Land Cruiser at predawn, headlights cutting through dust and mist

The smell of the bush at 5am

Why we still get up before dawn after twenty years in the bush. The case for the early game drive, written from the back of a Land Cruiser at five in the morning.

A mokoro at first light on a flooded channel of the Okavango Delta

The Okavango is the second river

Why the Delta floods in the dry season, and what that does to a safari

Sabi Sand, the reserve that built modern safari

Sabi Sand, the reserve that built modern safari

Why one strip of bush on Kruger's western edge changed how the world watches leopards

Coffee mugs and rusks on the bonnet of a Land Cruiser at first light

A day on safari, hour by hour

From the knock at the door to the second sundowner

02 — GUIDES

The questions you should ask

Honest answers, written without the marketing voice.

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An elephant bull walks through golden winter grass beside the river at Sandringham Private Game Reserve, with the tented suites of N'weti Camp on the far bank

The big question

Sandringham Private Game Reserve: should you go early, or wait?

Greater Kruger's newest reserve opens in August 2026. Our honest take on who should book Sandringham early, and who should give it a few seasons.

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An elephant bull walks through golden winter grass beside the river at Sandringham Private Game Reserve, with the tented suites of N'weti Camp on the far bank

Guide

Sandringham Private Game Reserve: should you go early, or wait?

Greater Kruger's newest reserve opens in August 2026. Our honest take on who should book Sandringham early, and who should give it a few seasons.

Sunset over the pool deck at a safari lodge

Guide

The packing guide

What to bring on safari, what to leave at home, and the one thing no lodge can lend you. An honest packing list from the team in Hoedspruit.

African customs official scanning bags

Guide

South Africa's online traveller declaration: what it means for your safari (and what it doesn't)

A five-minute customs form now stands between you and the arrivals hall. Here's what it is, who needs it, and what nothing to declare actually means for a normal safari guest.

Boma evening set up at Madikwe Safari Lodge

Guide

How safari pricing actually works

From the people who build the quotes. What you are really paying for, where the money goes, and how to spend it well.

Baby leopard in a tree

Guide

Where the money actually goes on a luxury safari

A line-by-line look at what you're actually paying for on a luxury African safari — and what a quote that looks light is usually hiding.

Bazaruto vs Quirimbas: which Mozambique archipelago is right for you?

Guide

Bazaruto vs Quirimbas: which Mozambique archipelago is right for you?

How to choose between Mozambique's two great archipelagos for a bush-and-beach trip. Geography, lodge feel, when to go.

A leopard crossing a sandy track at first light, Sabi Sand

Guide

Sabi Sand or Kruger

Two reserves, one fence line, very different mornings

A silverback mountain gorilla in dense bamboo forest, looking at the camera

Guide

Gorilla trekking, Uganda or Rwanda

Two countries, the same forest, two very different days

Safari vehicle on open plains at golden hour, Sabi Sand Game Reserve South Africa

Guide

Do you need travel insurance for a safari

What safari travel insurance must cover, and why standard policies fall short

Sole-use villa safaris in Africa

Guide

Sole-use villa safaris in Africa

What sole-use villa safaris mean in practice, who they suit, and what to ask

Kigali, Rwanda - the cleanest country in Africa

Guide

Why Rwanda is the cleanest country in Africa

A plastic-bag ban from 2008. A mandatory community work morning on the last Saturday of every month. The system behind Rwanda's cleanliness, explained.

Modern luxury safari lodge lounge looking out across the Botswana bushveld

Guide

What's actually changing in safari travel in 2026

We do not love the trend pieces either. But after twenty years of designing safaris, the real shifts in 2026 are worth naming. Here are the four we are seeing in our own bookings, and the two we think are oversold.

Kosher drinks and snacks on a game drive

Guide

Kosher safaris in South Africa: how a bush kitchen actually works

The honest guide to keeping kosher on safari in South Africa. Three tiers of catering, real pricing, Shabbat in the bush, and how we put one together.

Boat in Mozambique, blue ocean

Guide

When to go to Mozambique: a month-by-month read on weather, water and wildlife

A month-by-month read on Mozambique weather, water and wildlife. Whale sharks, humpbacks, mantas, cyclones, dry season.

A luxury safari lodge at night with lanterns around the pool

Guide

How long should a safari actually be

Seven nights minimum, ten nights ideal: a plain guide to safari length

Elephants at a waterhole in a dry South African game reserve at golden hour

Guide

Malaria-free safaris in South Africa

Big Five reserves in South Africa where no malaria prophylaxis is needed

A male lion resting in dry winter grass in the lowveld

Guide

How we plan a vegan safari in South Africa

A working guide to building a fifteen-night plant-based safari, from Cape Town's Atlantic coast to two private reserves in the Greater Kruger

Vegan safaris in Africa: an honest look at where plant-based travel actually works

Guide

Vegan safaris in Africa: an honest look at where plant-based travel actually works

Plant-based safari travel works well across Africa when the chef has a proper brief. A composite week, the questions guests actually ask, and where vegan still requires real planning.

Wheelchair accessible safaris in Africa

Guide

Wheelchair accessible safaris in Africa

A practical guide to wheelchair accessible safari destinations and lodges across Africa, from Kruger to the Okavango Delta.

Aerial view of a luxury private safari villa beside a river in Africa, the kind of exclusive-use property that suits multi-generational family travel.

Guide

Multi-generational safaris in Africa: the rise of private villas

Multi-generational safaris are the fastest-growing way families travel to Africa. Private villas and exclusive-use lodges, planned around different ages. The how, the why, and what they cost.

Solo women on safari

Guide

Solo women on safari

How to plan a safe, well-organised solo safari in southern Africa as a woman

The real cost of a luxury safari in South Africa

Guide

The real cost of a luxury safari in South Africa

What the money actually buys you, and where lodges quietly inflate

Tarangire: Tanzania's other great safari park

Guide

Tarangire: Tanzania's other great safari park

Huge elephant herds, ancient baobabs, and very few crowds. Here's why we include Tarangire in nearly every northern Tanzania itinerary.

Namibia or Botswana, which safari should you choose

Guide

Namibia or Botswana, which safari should you choose

Red dunes and distance, or water and density

Botswana with kids: why families keep coming back

Guide

Botswana with kids: why families keep coming back

Botswana is one of Africa's most rewarding destinations for families. Here's what makes it work, and how to plan it well.

Botswana or Zambia, which safari should you choose

Guide

Botswana or Zambia, which safari should you choose

One country is water. The other is silence under your boots

Elephant silhouette at sunset under an acacia tree, Southern Africa

Guide

Is a safari worth it? An honest answer

Honest answer for first-time safari travellers. What you actually get, when to go, and how to plan it well.

Couple watching sunset over the South African bushveld from a luxury safari lodge deck

Guide

Honeymoon safaris in South Africa

Where to go, what to expect, and how to pair bush with beach

When to go to Namibia on safari

Guide

When to go to Namibia on safari

Not every season delivers the same Namibia. Here's how to match your travel dates to what you actually want from this extraordinary country.

How to plan a luxury safari in South Africa

Guide

How to plan a luxury safari in South Africa

A working guide to building a trip you won't regret

Aerial view of the Okavango Delta channels and palm islands at sunset

Guide

What a Botswana safari actually costs (and why it's the most expensive in Africa)

Botswana costs more than any other safari country in Africa. The reason is not greed. It is policy. Here is how the pricing actually breaks down, what each tier gets you, and why we still send most of our clients here.

A hippo yawning

Guide

When to go on safari in South Africa

The bush wears a different face every month, and some are kinder than others

What a luxury safari in South Africa actually costs

Guide

What a luxury safari in South Africa actually costs

What you're really paying for on a luxury safari in South Africa: nightly rates, private concessions, charter flights, and total trip budgets.

When to go on safari in Botswana

Guide

When to go on safari in Botswana

The Delta has two good seasons. They are completely different trips

Sabi Sand Game Reserve: South Africa's leopard country

Guide

Sabi Sand Game Reserve: South Africa's leopard country

The Sabi Sand has the highest leopard density of any protected area in South Africa. Here's what makes it genuinely different, and how we plan trips here.

An open soft duffel bag on a wooden lodge floor with binoculars, a field guide, and a fleece

Guide

What to pack for a safari

A short, honest list from the people who keep getting the WhatsApp message at 11pm the night before

Open-sided safari lodge deck overlooking a dry riverbed at golden hour in Africa

Guide

How to choose a safari lodge

What actually matters when choosing a safari lodge, and what turns out not to.

Wildebeest crossing the Mara River during the Great Migration in northern Serengeti, Tanzania

Guide

How we plan a luxury African safari (the long version)

After twenty years of designing safaris, this is how we actually do it. Not a checklist. The order we ask the questions in, what we trade off, and why we say no to certain combinations.

We design safaris around the people travelling, not the brochure.

VIKKI JACKSON · CO-FOUNDER

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03 — VOICES

The people who actually know

Listen to who you are buying from.

All Voices →

04 — JOURNEYS

The trips we actually sent

Real briefs. Real routes. Real numbers.

All Journeys →

EVERYTHING IN ONE PLACE

Read the whole archive

Want to see every piece we have published, ordered by date? Open the full archive. Or send us what you are planning and we will start a conversation.

Write to us

One of us will write back.

Replies come from Vikki or Sian. No obligation, just a conversation.

Prefer to write to us directly? sian@marulahill.com · WhatsApp +27 82 459 0648